Hamilton 212 Impeller Swap

Hamilton 212

If your Jet pump looks like the one in the photo to the left, fear not. Changing your impeller to achieve maximum performance is a simple task. It requires fairly simple tools as shown in the photo to the right.

You'll need the following tools:
24" long chunk of wood
200 ft/lb torque wrench
13mm socket and wrench
19mm wrench
30mm socket
short length of wire or cord
Impact gun or breaker bar
Blue Locktight

Your impeller is cast in 2 pieces and comes bolted together. You should NOT try to split this apart. Located on the nosecone is a part number that tells you which impeller you have. The one to the right is a 2.4 KW that has been re pitched to 2.8KW. You can look up the intake grate and see the number, or remove the cleanout cover and look down.

The first item to remove is the little aluminum shield plate on top of the reverse bucket. If your boat has a swim deck, you may not see this item, since it's only purpose is to keep water from shooting into the boat when you are in deep reverse. A swim deck deflects the water out of the boat, so many manufactures don't use them. There are 2 13mm nuts and locknuts holding it on. Use your socket wrench to remove them. (Note - if you don't have a 13mm socket, a 1/2" 6 point socket will work).

The bucket balance spring needs to be removed next. Here's where you'll use your custom tool.

Pass a length of wire through the spring eye and wrap it around your hands. Pull on the wire lifting the spring off the rear support bolt.

Note the orientation of the tapered pins for the steering shaft shown to the left, and the bucket control on the right. The steering shaft pin orientation must match when you put things back together or things will bind. Note the illustration to the left shows an orientation suitable for a dual pump installation. In a single pump boat, this would can't the steering arm 15 degrees off of vertical inside the boat. Note the fore and aft orientation of the steering ball as well. It may be flipped depending on the degree of trim desired on your nozzle.

Helpful hint! To remove the tapered pins, loosen the nuts with a 13 mm wrench until they are flush with the end of the thread. A good sharp rap with a hammer will break them loose. One good rap beats a bunch of small taps which may tend to deform the pin.

Remove the 4 stainless steel nuts and locknuts that secure the bowl to the pump housing.

Grasp the bucket around the hinge and gently slide the entire bowl / bucket assembly rearwards and slide it off the rear of the pump.

Note - It isn't neccesary to remove the reverse bucket to swap out the impeller, and it just creates extra work.


The photo to the left shows the impeller sitting on the drive shaft. You'll need to use an impact wrench and 30 mm socket to remove the nut that secures the impeller to the drive shaft. If you don't have an impact gun, you can block the impeller with your chunk of wood standing vertically and use a breaker bar to loosen the nut. Make note of the orientation of the spacers as the impeller is slid off the shaft. The order is shown to the right. The pointy end on the right side goes towards the front of the boat. Reversing it inadvertently on re-assembly will give very poor performance.
Take a look inside the bowl and ensure there are no huge nicks or scratches and that the rubber cutlass bearing looks intact and not glazed over.

Look up inside the pump cavity and make sure nothing is hanging up on the intake grate. Note - In some cases, it may be easier to remove the rear of the pump as shown above to clear a serious blockage than to try to go under the boat to clear the grate.

Lubricate the shaft with never seize and slide the new impeller onto the shaft. Make sure that both O-Rings are intact as shown in the photo to the left.

Before installing the nut to secure the impeller and bushings, apply some blue locktight to the threads.

Using a torque wrench, and a block of wood to restrain the impeller, tighten the nut to 200 foot pounds of torque. Reverse the order of disassembly to put everything back together. Once you slide the bowl /reverse bucket onto the 4 bolts that secure the bowl, you need to carefully slide the bronze steering and reverse shifter assemblies onto their shafts a bit at a time. Wiggle the steering one forward, lift the bucket and wiggle the bucket bronze block, slide the bowl forward a bit, wiggle the steering block, then the reverse block, then slide the bowl, repeat as needed. Don't force or try to beat anything on and it will all slide smoothly together.

Tighten up the 4 S/S nuts that secure the bowl to 80 foot pounds, and secure the remaining 13mm nuts on the spray deflector (if used) and the tapered pins. Ensure the reverse bucket operates smoothly, and the steering is centered with the steering wheel and travels freely from side to side to the limits of travel. If something doesn't appear correct, check the orientation of the tapered pins.

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